Laying Vinyl Flooring

Below is a clear, practical, step-by-step process on how to fit vinyl flooring. It is suitable for all vinyl types. 

Step 1: Prepare the room

Clear the space completely, removing all furniture and skirting boards. Remove the old flooring if necessary, and ensure the subfloor is structurally sound. Thoroughly clean the subfloor to remove all dust, debris, and moisture.

The surface must be dry, level and smooth as any imperfections can negatively affect the quality of the final installation. If there are any rough or uneven areas, use a self-levelling compound to even them out.

Let the vinyl flooring rest for a few hours in the room where it will be installed. This allows it to adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity, preventing movement or shrinkage after installation.

Step 2: Lay Underlay (If required)

If installing on concrete, choose an underlay with a built-in damp-proof membrane (DPM) to protect the vinyl from moisture. 

For floorboards, select a foam or cork underlay to smooth out imperfections and reduce noise.

Unroll the underlay across the subfloor, ensuring it lies flat without creases. Cut it to fit the space using a sharp utility knife, ensuring the edges meet but do not overlap.

Use underlay tape along the seams to prevent movement and ensure a stable surface before laying the vinyl.

Step 3: Measure and plan layout

Measure the room multiple times to ensure accuracy, and carefully plan your layout. For planks or tiles, ensure your first row is square and that the final planks against the far wall are not too thin.

If using sheet vinyl, lay it out and create a precise template using a utility knife. Make cuts around doorways and fixtures, leaving a small expansion gap (approximately 5-10mm) around the perimeter.

For LVT or click flooring, use your measurements to mark the planks, use a utility knife or a straight edge to do so. 

Step 4. Apply Adhesive or Install Click System

Adhesive Installation 

1. Use a notched trowel to apply the manufacturer recommended adhesive to the subfloor in small sections, working your way out from a corner. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for curing time.

2. Position the tile or sheet vinyl and press it firmly down onto the adhesive. Use a hand roller or floor roller to ensure full contact and remove any air bubbles. Work across the room methodically. 

Click Flooring Installation

1. Begin positioning the first row of planks from a corner, working across the room.

2. Insert the tongue of the new plank into the groove of the previously installed plank at an angle, then press down to lock it into place.

3. Check that each plank locks correctly for a smooth, seamless finish. Use light tapping if necessary.

Step 4. Finishing Touches

Use beading, trim, or skirting boards to cover the expansion gaps left around the edges of the room. Clean the surface according to the manufacturer's directions, removing any trace of adhesive or dirt. 

If adhesive was used, restrict traffic on the new floor for the time specified by the adhesive manufacturer (usually 24 hours).

Laying sheet vinyl on concrete requires precise planning and execution. This is mainly due to the difficulty in managing moisture, and ensuring that the surface is, dry, clean and perfectly smooth before laying. 

1. Prepare the Concrete Subfloor

Remove all loose particles, dust, and debris from the subfloor using a vacuum or broom. Use a degreasing solution to clean any oil or grease stains.

Carefully check the vinyl for any cracks, uneven spots, or dips. Fill any damage with a suitable patching compound. For larger, or more significant uneven areas, use a self-levelling compound to create a perfectly flat and smooth surface.

It’s important to remember that when laying sheet vinyl on concrete, it can sometimes release moisture. This can lead to mould growth, warping, or adhesive failure under the vinyl. Perform a moisture test; if levels are high, install a liquid DPM (Damp-Proof Membrane) to seal the surface.

For highly porous concrete, or before applying a levelling compound, a primer is often necessary to ensure the best adhesion.

2. Acclimatise the Sheet Vinyl 

Unroll the sheet vinyl in the room where it will be laid and allow it to rest for at least 24 to 72 hours to adapt to the room's temperature and humidity. This helps prevent shrinkage after installation.

Cut the sheet roughly to the size of the room, leaving an excess of around 4 inches on all sides, allowing the edges to curl up against the wall.

3. Measure and Cut the Sheet Vinyl 

For rooms with a high number of corners or fixtures, creating a template using masking paper.

For any rooms with external corners, make a vertical relief cut from the top down to where the vinyl touches the floor. When dealing with internal corners, make a V-shaped cut to help the vinyl lay flat.

Carefully cut the vinyl along the wall line, using a straight edge and utility knife. Leave a small expansion gap (around 3mm) between the vinyl and the wall to allow for slight expansion.

4. Apply Adhesive 

Carefully fold back half of the vinyl sheet to expose the pre-prepared concrete subfloor.

Use the manufacturer's recommended notched trowel size to spread the adhesive evenly onto the exposed concrete. 

Follow the adhesive instructions closely; some require a short curing or open time to become tacky before the vinyl is laid.

Carefully unbend the vinyl back into position, ensuring it does not fold or bunch up.

5. Finish and Curing

Starting from the centre and working outward, use a floor roller to firmly press the vinyl into the adhesive across the entire floor. This eliminates any trapped air bubbles. 

If your installation requires a seam, bond it using a recommended seam sealer, following the manufacturer’s directions.

Reattach old skirting boards and trim or install new ones. Ensure they are nailed to the wall, not the floor, to allow for expansion. Use a waterproof sealant around the edges, especially in bathrooms. 

In order to not spoil the bonding and curing process when laying sheet vinyl on concrete, it’s vital that the floor isn’t walked on for at least 24 hours. 

Fitting vinyl flooring on floorboards is different from other surfaces. The instructions below will explain why.

1. Ensure floorboards are secure and ready 

When installing vinyl flooring on floorboards, it’s important to examine the floorboards for any loose or squeaky planks, fix or remove if any are found. Secure them firmly to the joists using screws.

Ensure there are no protruding nails or screws on the surface of the floorboards. Either remove them or countersink them so they are flush with the wood.

Check the evenness of the floor using a spirit level or straightedge. Any deviations greater than 2mm over a 1-metre run must be levelled out.

Fill large gaps or cracks between boards with a suitable filler, levelling or repair compound.

2. Install a Secondary Subfloor 

Use a thin backer board, typically 4mm or 6mm plywood or high-quality flooring-grade chipboard.

Cut the boards and fix them using screws or ring-shank nails, ensuring fixings are countersunk and flush with the surface. Screw every 300mm to ensure stability.

Once fixed, apply a suitable smoothing compound to level out any depressions and fill the gaps between the plywood sheets.

3. Prepare the Vinyl 

Bring the vinyl flooring into the room where it will be installed and let it lie flat for between 24 and 48 hours. 

Before cutting, inspect all rolls or planks for any visible defects or discolouration. 

Removing the old skirting boards before installation to allow for a clean edge when trimming is strongly recommended. 

4. Lay Underlay (Only if needed)

Do not use underlay for sheet vinyl, as it can cause instability, punctures, and dents. If cushioning is desired, choose a vinyl with a built-in felt backing.

If your Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT) does not have an attached pad, use a specific LVT underlay. This underlay is typically a high-density, thin foam (1mm to 1.5mm thick) that provides sound absorption and stability without being too soft.

5. Cut and install the vinyl   

Lay the vinyl down with the longest edge parallel to the longest clear wall. Use a scribing gauge to mark the exact contour of the skirting board onto the vinyl, or press the vinyl into the angle between the floor and the wall using a bolster chisel to create a crease. Cut along the crease or line, angling the knife for a neat finish.

For click-lock vinyl, maintain an expansion gap of 7-10mm around the perimeter of the room and against any fixed objects. This allows for the material's expansion and contraction. Glue-down tiles do not require an expansion gap.

Roll back the vinyl and apply spray adhesive along the perimeter of the room before pressing the vinyl back down.

Interlock the planks at an angle and press them down to secure the joint. Ensure the entire row is connected properly for a smooth, seamless finish.

Use a roller or soft broom to press the vinyl down flat across the entire area to ensure a full bond and push out any trapped air.

6. Sealing and Finish 

Reinstall skirting boards or cover the expansion gaps with trim.

In high-moisture areas like bathrooms, seal the edges of the floor with a waterproof silicone sealant to ensure it is completely protected.

When attempting to lay vinyl flooring on floorboards, it’s important to carefully follow the adhesive manufacturer's instructions for the required curing time. This means that a minimum of 24 hours is needed before the vinyl can be walked on.